From the porch of the Crayola yellow–stucco Bwindi Bar, I leaned back in my plastic patio chair clutching a cold Nile beer. I watched as women swathed in geometric-patterned skirts rode sidesaddle on the back of motorbikes, and soldiers cycled down the street on battered old Trek bicycles. Around 4 p.m., a dust-covered Star Link coach came to a grinding halt out front for its daily passenger pickup for the 12-hour trip to Uganda’s capital city, Kampala.
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